Specilaizing in custom mountaineering, skiing and expeditions since 1979
Mountaineering on Bugaboo Spire
James Blench - Mountain Guide
Mountaineering Adventures in Canada and Worldwide
Mountaineering Trips
The Alpine season in the Rockies starts in late May and can often be great right to the end of September with our famous Indian summer. All mountaineering is booked on a private basis and prices will vary with group size. Below is a small sampling of options graded to difficulty. Custom trips worldwide can be arranged including the Saint Elias and Mt. Logan, the Waddington Group, Baffin Island, Cirque of the Unclimables, Peru and Nepal and the Alps!
Beginner: no previous experience. Good fitness and a sense of adventure!
Intermediate: Basic knowledge of belays, crevasse rescue, knots and easy movement on snow and ice using crampons and ice axe. Comfortable moving on rock to 5.4 and on exposed terrain. Comfortable carrying moderate loads to 20kg.
Advanced: Applied knowledge of belays, crevasse rescue and knots. Comfortable moving on 60 degree snow and ice and short vertical sections. Comfortable on rock to 5.7 and moving fast on loose exposed ground. Can carry heavy loads to 25kg.
Assiniboine- The "Matterhorn of the Rockies"
Grade: Intermediate Season: July to September Time: 3 or 4 days Ratio: 1:1 Accomodation: Hind Hut

Assiniboine usually comes into shape by July. I usually fly in and take the "Gmoser Highway" to the Hind hut on day one. The NE Ridge is the normal line of ascent and takes about 10-12 hours involving lots of scrambling and easy 5th class climbing. The views of Marble Lake and the surrounding peaks are wonderful. 4 day trips allows and option for bad weather or additional ascents of Mt. Sturdee or Strom
Athabasca, A2 and the Columbia Icefields Region
Grade: Beginner to Advanced Season: May- October Time: 3-5 days depending on options Ratio: depends on difficulty
Accomodation: Car Camping or the Columbia Icefields Hotel
Athabasca and the Columbia Icefields offer some of the most accessible alpine climbing in Canada. From easy glacier walks to icy north faces the area is suitable from beginners to advanced alpinists. Trips can vary from a basic introduction to mountain skills to demanding north face ice climbs. Options exist for ascents of Mt. Kitchner, Columbia, Snowdome or Alberta for strong intermediate climbers.
Bugaboos
Grade: Beginner to Advanced Season: June to September Time: 3-10days Ratio: depends on objectives
Accommodation: Conrad Kain Hut or Tent Camping at Applebee Dome
Bugaboo, Pigeon and Snowpatch Spire, the Marmolata and the Howser Towers. The Bugaboos is one of Canada's great alpine playgrounds with climbs suitable for beginner to advanced climbers. Glacier approaches to granite walls and uncomparabe scenery.Other options are available in the Purcell Range to explore the near by Vowell Group or the Catamount glacier and Starbird Ridge.